In keeping with the past seasons, Martine Rose’s style forms a revolution, producing streetwear uniform:
Underpinning the collection is the MA-1 flight jacket. Using the stitching details from 2nd World War designs, Martine Rose follows the original specification yet updates the jacket into an iconic piece of streetwear which is instantly recognisable to Martine’s style.
Drawing inspiration from American modernist Man Ray and his most prolific period in which he obsessively collected all kinds of artefacts, Martine Rose adapts the MA-1 jacket with prints, patchworks and resin pin badges recreated from archive photocopies of Martine’s extensive jewellery collection.
Maintaining the innovative use of fabrics and an acute attention to detail that has become a trademark of Martine’s designs, the AW12 collection delivers a cohesive and bold collective of premium garments. Photographer, Lee Miller and his work on the development of the photographic solarisation is another key influence this season; strips of knitted black angora are worked into the seams of the shirts, creating the illusion of a blurry halo surrounding the figure.
Luxurious embroidered shawls in silk cashmere and mohair are worn by both men and women and are reminiscent of the indigenous Indians of Peru and Guatemala.
The new collection moves on from the utilitarian and militarised feel of the Spring Summer offering, yet still maintains an innovative use of fabrics with acute attention to detail that has become a trade mark for the Martine Rose brand.
Taking inspiration from a variety of sources including the multi layered style of desert tribes, who require clothing to keep them cool in the day light hours and warmer at night. Martine has created a range that ‘armours up’ the wearer. By using a mix of materials that delivers warmth, texture and protection, personified by pieces such as the t-shirt made from hypothermia blanket fabric.
In addition, built into the collection is a mix of fleece, wax, faux fur and felt, mixed with strong silhouettes created from underlay. Throughout the range there is an underlying signature in the form of a blue pinstripe which creates a synergy that combines the amalgamation of these sculptural pieces.
In terms of hue, the collection presents a blend of very tonal browns, blacks and greys with flashes of metallic milieu further creating a shield and building on the layers.
The new collection moves on from the structured and military feel of AW11, whilst maintaining an innovative use of fabrics and an acute attention to detail that has become a trademark for the Martine Rose brand.
Drawing inspiration from the 70’s Californian skate and surf scene as well as the legendary Zephyr Team, Martine’s latest collection uses sheer fabrics and washed denims, reminiscent of the sun bleached sidewalks of cult documentary Dogtown ‘Z’ boys.
The SS12 collection demonstrates the importance of energy, youth and individuality within fashion. Martine Rose looked to icons such as Kurt Cobain for inspiration; his ability to subvert the perception of the 20th century man, with his appearances in dresses and skirts, lent to the idea of wearing sheer culottes over trousers.